Basic Rock Climbing Advice

By The Outdoorshop

Climbing Wall Kit: The advent of good quality climbing walls has meant it is possible to climb to a high technical standard with the minimum of gear. These notes are aimed at the beginner who intends progressing onto outside crags. You will need:

1 Harness
Pair of Rockshoes
1 Belay Device
1 Screwgate Karabiner for use with the belay device
1 Chalkbag and a chalk ball to and waist cord to go with it

Quickdraws:

Sufficient to get to the top of the wall. Typically this is four or five for a 10 - 12 metre wall, many walls are bigger and require more. Some have them already fixed in place and require none. It is worth carrying one extra in case you drop one.

Rope

´Single´ rope, double the height of the wall is the minimum but some walls have them fixed in place.

Beginner´s Seconding Kit: Beginners are well advised not to invest in leading gear initially until they have learnt to place gear by borrowing other people´s and receiving instruction (either from friends or professionals). A rackful of nuts and camming devices can give a dangerous illusion of safety if it is not combined with sufficient knowhow on safe placements. In addition to the following:

1 Harness
Pair of Rockshoes
1 Belay Device
1 HMS Screwgate Karabiner for use with the belay device
1 Chalkbag and a chalk ball to and waist cord to go with it
The beginner seconding climbs will need:
1 Helmet
1 Gear Proddler and Karabiner to hang it on
Set of 2 Prussik Loops
2 Screwgate Karabiners for belays and prusiking
1 Sling (120cm long) for belays and prusiking.

Beginner´s Leading Rack: As a basic leading rack for leading short pitches/routes* up to VS level, in addition to:

1Harness
Pair of Rockshoes
1 Belay Device
1 Screwgate Karabiner for use with the belay device
1 Chalkbag and a chalk ball to and waist cord to go with it
1 Helmet
1 Gear Proddler and Karabiner to hang it on
Set of two Prussik Loops

Rope
50m 'single'
required for seconding, we would suggest the following as a suitable starting rack:

Wires: Set of Wild Country Rocks 1 - 10
Nuts: Sizes 5 - 8 Wild Country Rockcentrics on Dyneema tape
1 of each

Quickdraws: Long (15 - 20cm) are better than short (10cm) as they do not tend to lift the gear out so easily. Short quick draws are more suited to bolt protected routes and climbing walls.
*Absolute minimum of 4 though 6 or 8 would be better

Slings: For spikes, threads, extensions and tree belays. It is worth making sure all your slings are diffent colours as it makes untangling them much easier.
*Two short (60cm) & two long (120cm)

Karabiners: For equipping slings and nuts etc. ´Krabs´ come with straight, bent or wire gates. If you´re not sure, straight are a safe choice.
*Minimum of 10

Screwgate Karabiners: For setting up belays with.
*Minimum of 2

Whilst we would recommend adding further wires and quickdraws first, there is always the possibility of buying some Camming Devices (Friends), as you can afford them.

*NB Most climbers operating regularly at this level would carry more gear than this. Please see Advanced Climbing Gear for further advice.

All items mentioned in this article can be found at www.theoutdoorshop.com

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