Spy Novels Research In Tunisia

By James Marinero

Why choose to go yacht cruising in North Africa? I cruised the coast in the autumn of 2010, just before the Tunisian revolution, whilst researching locations for spy novels. If you have a yacht and are considering sailing in the Mediterranean (or maybe you are already there), then why not cruise the North African coast. Yes, it has some challenges, but if you´ve sailed the Spanish coast and the Balearics, you will have learned that coast has its challenges too - not least of which is finding an anchorage or mooring in high season. It is very different in North Africa.

Along the Maghreb, prevailing winds in summer months aregenerally from the easterly quadrant, and in winter months usually from the west. The autumn is a particularly good time of year for cruising this coast, when the winds arestaring to go westerly and the air is not as hot and humid as in the summer - there tends to be a little more wind and therefore less motoring if you are a sailor. Obviously though, the wind direction better suits an east-going route in this season.

The exotic city of Tangier is the first port of call as you enter the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a tourist trap and finding a berth is not easy. About ten miles south of the Straits is the development of Marina Smir, Morocco. Part of a fading tourist centre, it has plenty of space (even for tall ships) and a decent boatyard. If you´ve never seen a camel in a marina, then you might see one here. Diesel fuel is much cheaper than in the EU.

M´Diq, is about five miles away, with a local market, butchers and fishmongers. Alcohol can be found, but with difficulty. It is a male-orientated society and public ladies´ toilets can be hard to find.

There are other small harbours within a day´s sail of Smir, but Smir is a port of entry to Morocco. Ceuta nearby, and Melilla (120 mls away) are enclaves governed by Spain and part of the EU.

The Moroccans are not very keen on your anchoring - a skipper should get permission first in port.

Next to Morocco, heading east, is Algeria. Political unrest is fairly widespread, so it´s not popular with cruisers and the coastline is strictly controlled. You could take a leg up from Smir to say, Almeria in Spain. Hopefully, the situation will improve in the near future as I´d love to cruise there. Whichever way you go, there will be plenty of shipping to keep you on your toes.

Just 8 miles over the Algerian border, you come to Tabarka in Tunisia. It has a magnificent Genoese fort from the 16th century guarding its approaches. The marina, adjacent to the town, is somewhat run down, but the people are very friendly.Now you meet the ´bakhsheesh´ culture - basically a gift for services rendered i.e. a bribe. A policeman will ask discreetly if you have ´something to present to him´. Cheap whisky or cigarettes - they can all be given. Avoid giving cash if you can.

Further along the coast from Tabarka, the marina at Bizerte has been closed for redevelopment, and should be open for the 2012 season, subject to the political issues.

Then, on to Sidi Bou Said. It is close to Tunis, and the Presidential Palace is about half a mile from the marina. The ruins of Carthage base of the Phoenicians are close by and well worth a visit. The capital of Tunisia, Tunis is only a short train ride away, with lots of soukhs and an ambience of French colonialism. It really is a terrific place for authors of spy novels.

This is not a ´cheap´ marina, though costs in general along this coast are much less than in Spain . There are French-style supermarkets, and wine and beer can be bought.

Further south from the Gulf of Tunis are Marina Yasmin Hammamet and Sfaxx. The Tunisians as did the Moroccans invested heavily in marinas, but many are faded now. Boatyard facilities are good and hauling out is more economical than in Italy, so it is a good location to winter. Need a break from the sea? You can always take a trip into the Sahara on a camel! All in all, a fantastic area for authors of thriller and spy novels!

Article Source: http://interpret.zar.vg

About The Author
An experienced ocean sailor and cruising yachtsman, the author has sailed for over 40 years. He now writes topical thriller novels and spy novels all with marine themes.